I am at my wits end..

Re: I am at my wits end..

Postby alphaseek » Tue Mar 06, 2018 2:55 pm

I'm glad things turned out well for you. I'm curious what version your analog boards are. The last official mention was version E, but some have seen version F.

If you think you might want to do the battery conversion mod at some point, you might read through that thread including the part about possibly installing the encoder directly to the main board instead of using the daughterboard. That would save you the trouble of undoing and redoing, although some have done the mod without making that change. It involves some risk to the encoder because you have to bend the pins backward, but it seems you have two spares to work with.
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Re: I am at my wits end..

Postby RobNL » Tue Mar 06, 2018 3:00 pm

Can you tell me whitch one is fake ?

BTW, if iI buy (say) 100 shell derect from JYE iI pay (say) 10 euro/pcs.
Now I have to make money and sell them for (say) 20 euro incl shipping to make 5 euro profit.......NOT !
I have to pay taxes https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tax_rates_in_Europe and customs.
So I can't sell the shells for 15 euro, but for (say) 35 euro incl shipping to make the same 5 euro profit.

BTW, do you know wat a exclusive Licensing or patent will cost......over 25,000 US$ for one (1) product.
So ypou have to sell a lott of the product to get this money back.

(Azië don't resepct licence or patent)
Attachments
not fake.JPG
CU, Rob
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Re: I am at my wits end..

Postby Pingpong » Wed Mar 07, 2018 12:07 am

RobNL,
There is always a loophole when it comes to taxes and customs. It just needs to be found and exploited.

Even if you didn't want to "fiddle the books" you could use Amazons "fulfilled by Amazon" service. You open a store and get JYE to ship the DSO 150's to Amazon. You watch a modest profit roll in, Amazon does the rest. https://services.amazon.com/fulfillment-by-amazon/benefits.htm/ref=asus_fba_hnav.
Open a JYE store on Amazon, sell low and the customers will come. With a product like this, profits will not be made with high prices. Profits will be made by moving large amounts of product with a small margin. Heck, I will open the store if you like. PM me if you are interested JYE... :D

(Azië don't resepct licence or patent)

And that is why the fakes will win in JYE's home market. Once the Genuine firmware is cracked, it will be an uphill struggle for JYE to make any sort of profit. I am surprised they do now, with all the fakes about.

Can you tell me whitch one is fake ?

Can you provide a photo that isn't blurry? lol

Alphaseek,
I'm glad things turned out well for you.

So am I friend, so am I.

I'm curious what version your analog boards are. The last official mention was version E, but some have seen version F.

How do I tell which version the analogue board is? I will have a look for you.

If you think you might want to do the battery conversion mod at some point

Already on it lol. I went with this tutorial when I built my fake. https://youtu.be/7A36Mga0jsY.
I stripped a Nintendo DS Lite battery, soldered wires to the terminals and used it as a power source. Worked fine until I decided to update the firmware... (cough cough)
Since then I have been a bit dubious about the charger and step up converter he used in his build. I read that some components like this can cause interference when trying to read certain frequencies. I know there are charger units with the step up converter built in, but which one is the best?
I was also wondering if the DSO needed grounding once a battery is installed. Delicate instruments like multimeters for instance, usually have a metal plate attached to the inner casing which in turn is bought into contact with the ground plane of the circuit board. Usually, a spring is used for this purpose (at least in the cheaper models I have opened up.)

...possibly installing the encoder directly to the main board instead of using the daughterboard

did that too. I used a pair of ESD tweezers to carefully bend back each pin. I then put the encoder in place and used the tweezers to coax the pins into their holes, then soldered it in place. The two pins on the sides were trickier because of they only just kind of reached. I cranked the heat up on my soldering iron and made sure both points were thoroughly soldered to the board. I cannot get that encoder I soldered on my fake DSO mainboard off. I even tried a bit of hot air (no hvorfordetda, I didn't breath on it :mrgreen: ). My rework station started melting the encoder long before the solder started to melt.

I guess the next step is to flash the firmware, assemble one and then test it out. 8-)
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Re: I am at my wits end..

Postby alphaseek » Wed Mar 07, 2018 1:32 am

The analog board will have silkscreen saying "109-15001-00E" or "109-15001-00F".

I think I used the same TP4056 charger and MT3608 boost converter that he used in the video, except that my charger has a microUSB connector. I replaced the pot on the converter with fixed resistors, mainly to make it smaller, and changed R3 (I think) on the charger to reduce the charging current to 400 ma. I haven't had any noise problems so far. I don't think you need to add any extra grounding.
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Re: I am at my wits end..

Postby RobNL » Wed Mar 07, 2018 7:38 am

>>Can you provide a photo that isn't blurry?l<<

I hope this one is better.
Attachments
fake DSO150.JPG
CU, Rob
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Re: I am at my wits end..

Postby Pingpong » Wed Mar 07, 2018 2:56 pm

Alphaseek,

The analogue boards are both version F. Is there much difference?
Image

I think I used the same TP4056 charger and MT3608 boost converter that he used in the video

So did I. My TP4056 is also micro usb. On the MT3608, the inductor is slightly more raised than the pot. At least on the ones I have. I think it is sensible to remove the pot and use resistors anyway. What configuration did you connect them in? I am just conscious that the pot has 3 leads. Also, what were the values of the resistors you used?
I am also going to have to change out the resistor on my charger too. There is way too much current going into the battery and I doubt Nintendo DS lite batteries were designed with fast charge capabilities in mind. :shock: I have had a lithium battery catch fire before and it wasn't funny. I have a chart of sorts tells you which value resistors to use with the TP4056 to change the current. It will just be a matter of finding how much current a DS charger provides and soldering the correct resistor to the TP4056.

RobNL,
So, which is the fake? If I can tell, do I get a prize? :lol:
Well, the one on the left doesn't have the black DSO screen printing so it obviously looks fake. Then again, the DSO screen printing looks slightly different on both of the other two. That would suggest one of them could be fake? At a guess, I would say all three are fake.
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Re: I am at my wits end..

Postby RobNL » Wed Mar 07, 2018 3:22 pm

NOP, no one is fake :D
I buy the first one wihtout a printed backside, the second and third with printed backside.
All came from the same seller of Banggood and cost ~13 euro/pcs.

BTW have you see this board for the powermod ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/5V-2-1A-Charge-Discharge-UPS-Mobile-Power-diy-Module-3-7V-4-2V-li-ion-18650-LED-/172812405137
You can switch the module on/off with a pulsswitch and can load the battery without using the shellpower.

And with this powercord (stepup) you can create 9 Volt.
Remove the cord and housing and use only yhe module, you need a extra diode to make 8V2.....same as connect the 9V from the shell.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/USB-DC-5V-to-DC-9V-12V-Step-up-Module-Converter-2-1x5-5mm-Male-Connector-Plus-MF/182332890986?hash=item2a73e31f6a:m:mr7Ob83RZ_YAKGoh4da8ooA
CU, Rob
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Re: I am at my wits end..

Postby alphaseek » Wed Mar 07, 2018 9:51 pm

We don't have any information on version F. I guess it's even possible it's really version E with a silkscreen error.

When you remove the boost converter pot, you'll see that the "top" of the pot is connected to V+, and "bottom" and the wiper are connected together and to the fixed 2.2K resistor and to pin 3 of the chip. The output voltage formula is in the datasheet. I wanted a little above 8V, and figured replacing the pot with a fixed 28K would be right. So I used two 56Ks in parallel.

For the charger, I used 3.3K in parallel with 33K, or about 3K, which gives a 400 ma charging current.

You may be able to tell from the pics what I did.
Attachments
Charger.jpg
Boost Converter.jpg
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Re: I am at my wits end..

Postby Pingpong » Thu Mar 08, 2018 1:42 pm

RobNL,
NOP, no one is fake :D
I buy the first one wihtout a printed backside, the second and third with printed backside.
All came from the same seller of Banggood and cost ~13 euro/pcs.


Dang, I was way off :lol: :lol: :lol:

13 euros each? They are a bit more expensive now but I simply don't understand how Banggood can charge so much less than JYE.

I have never seen a boost converter built into a USB cable before. It might be something simple but my mind is officially blown :shock:

I think I will stick with the method I used for the power supply before. I have the parts and if it works, it works.Thank you for your input though RobNL, much appreciated.

Alphaseek,

I see what you did. No faff and simple solutions. Nice soldering skills too by the way. My joints look nowhere near as nice. I don't know if it is me or the cheap chinesium solder I use. :lol:
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Re: I am at my wits end..

Postby RobNL » Thu Mar 08, 2018 3:41 pm

They cost now ~18 euro https://www.banggood.com/Orignal-JYE-Tech-DS0150-15001K-DSO-SHELL-DIY-Digital-Oscilloscope-Kit-With-Housing-p-1093865.html?cur_warehouse=CN and are originals.
Sometimes ther are coupons with 10 till 30% off, so look around befor you pay.

First I use a powerbank with this kind of cord and the shell works good, but still you have a cord between the shell and powerbank.
Thats why I buy the loader with (low) batterie monitor and the stepupcord to build this into the shell with a 1880 mA Keple Li-ion.
This Li-ion fit exact into the shell https://www.ebay.nl/itm/162089563558?ViewItem=&item=162089563558 and the shell works over 14 hours befor I have to load again.
I can also use the shell and load the Li-ion at the same time with 5Volt.....I use the 9Volt plug from the shell, but is it now 5Volt input.
https://www.banggood.com/USB-2_0-Male-To-DC-5_52_1mm-Plug-Adapter-Power-Cable-Connector-Jack-p-955969.html?rmmds=search&cur_warehouse=CN
No m ore holes to make in the case from the shell, only disconnect the 9V from the shell PCB.
CU, Rob
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